Oriented strand Board OSB, appeared relatively recently, have gained much popularity in the construction industry. They are used for the construction of load-bearing structures, decorating the room, laying rough floors, ceiling cladding and facades. This article is intended to answer the question whether it is possible to put a tile on the OSB plate and how to implement it.
Most often, the need of gluing particle Board for the walls occurs when the trim frame houses. This technology has been actively used in cottage and cottage construction in recent years. It is oriented-particle Board is the main building material in the construction of frame houses. OSB consists of several layers of pressed chips glued together with a mixture of resins, synthetic wax and boric acid. Raw materials are particles of coniferous wood. The final product has a number of advantages:
- high strength;
- easy handling and installation;
- moisture resistance;
- a relatively small weight;
- the price compared with plywood (the main competitor);
- aesthetic quality.
But whether it is possible to put a tile on OSB a plate without preliminary preparation of the basis? No. Despite the resistance to water, oriented particle Board is deformed under prolonged exposure to moisture, absorbing it. This is one of the factors that do not allow to glue ceramic tiles on the chip wall without special training. Therefore, the first stage is so important.
The main task at the first stage is to protect the surface from moisture, ensuring maximum adhesion of materials. There are several ways to achieve this result.
Take a look at three of them:
- Primer. The polymer solution will protect the wood from moisture. Before priming the surface, it is thoroughly sanded with sandpaper. After that a platen put a solution. Do it in two layers, giving the first time for drying about an hour. Gluing the tiles start in 12 hours.
- Additional layer. The second method does not involve the direct bonding of tile to OSB, but is very popular. The base of nail the joists in increments of two feet, and have them with screws to attach the plywood or moisture-resistant drywall. At this stage, it is important to ensure that the plane is as flat as possible. Otherwise, the glued veneer may fall off.
- Reinforcement. One of the advantages of the third option is additional wall alignment. A special reinforcing mesh is used for this purpose. Stack it by means of fixture or glue. In the second case, the mesh pressed into pre-applied composition, and the top is covered with it. The next day the wall is primed, dried, and then it is ready to work.
If OSB panels lacquered, high-gloss finish should be removed from them, otherwise it will greatly reduce the grip. Medium-grained sandpaper is used for this purpose.
The choice of adhesive and tiles
The usual cement composition for these purposes is not suitable. The main difficulty lies in the features of frame buildings. Depending on the weather conditions, they may be subjected to shrinkage and slight deformation. These processes lead to cracking and peeling rigidly fixed tiles.
So do not skimp on the glue. Choose a high-quality and sufficiently elastic composition. It should be suitable for use in rooms with high humidity and intended for problematic grounds. Minor deformation of the frame, it will withstand without consequences. The best options in this case – Ceresit CM 16, CM 17 Ceresit, Soudal 24A and KNAUF-Flex. The alternative can serve as liquid nails or silicone sealant.
The correct choice of tile also can get rid of the cracks. It is desirable that its dimensions should not exceed 30×30 cm.
We proceed from the fact that the first option of protection OSB from moisture – priming. To do this, you will need the following materials and tools:
- polymer primer;
- metal spatula with teeth of 6-10 mm;
- adhesive composition;
- hydraulic level and square;
- a device for cutting ceramics;
- grout and silicone spatula for its alignment (or foam sponge);
- spacers for tiles;
- moisture-resistant impregnation for grout.
If the second or third option of processing of the basis is chosen, logs, plywood (or gypsum cardboard) reinforcing a grid and screws will be necessary also.
How to stick on walls
Preparation of the surface is complete, the primer is dry, you can get to work. The most effective method for this is the use of "beacon tiles". This kind of marks, which are oriented to create a perfectly smooth walls. In a small room beacons glue to the extreme sides of the wall. On large areas they are fixed at a distance of 50-60 cm For the correct positioning of the tile relative to the floor using the hydraulic level.
In the next stage, with the slats with the vertical lines makes the markup. Stick the tiles starting from the bottom, laying alternately fully the first row, then the second, etc., so as To prevent the flatness of a laying under the bottom tiles enclose the long rail and do not clean it until the glue dries. Unfortunately, the floor is rarely a fairly flat surface-it is not necessary to focus on it when laying tiles.
The adhesive is applied as a Foundation, and on the tile with a notched trowel. It is designed to remove bubbles from the adhesive mixture. The rubber hammer is used for easy removal of the laid tile. These actions will increase the adhesion and allow the lining to lie as tightly as possible in the glue. To create a perfectly even distance between the tiles in the corners of the insert cross strut, and the sides are straight.
After bonding 4 rows of tiles should take a break and go to the next in an hour. You need to give the glue a chance to harden so that the lining is not displaced downward under its own weight.
Laying tile on the floor
Can I put floor tiles on the OSB? Many experts say that the tiling is much more difficult than papering walls. In any case, the differences do exist.
On the floor work starts with the center, not the edges. To do this, find the middle of the length of one wall and perpendicular to it to hold the line from that point. The same operation is carried out for the second wall. The intersection point of these lines will be the center of the room. Putting tile recommended here. To make the clippings smaller, you can slightly shift the Central tile by calculating the required distance. Alternatively, a previously dry lay the veneer in order to precisely calculate the location of the Central plate.
Laying is carried out in the same way as on vertical surfaces. The adhesive is applied on the floor and on the tiles, rattling the laid tiles with a rubber mallet.
To go for further manipulation of the finish is possible only after complete drying of the adhesive mixture. Given the fact that we have carefully protected the OSB from moisture penetration, the glue is harder to harden. Therefore, after the completion of work, you need to wait about 3 days before proceeding to the next step. With high humidity in the room, this period is increased to 10 days.
After the glue is completely solidified, remove the spacers and apply the grout. It is more convenient to work with a silicone spatula, but also an economical option – foam sponge. Excess grout should be removed immediately, because doing it later will be problematic. Then it is applied moisture-resistant impregnation, preventing the appearance of mold and fungus. The angles between floor and wall is additionally treated with a water-repellent putty, and set on top of the plinth. Only after applying all moisture-proof coatings tile can be washed.
Drilling of small holes for interior elements in ceramic tiles is made with a drill without perforation, otherwise cracks may appear. Wide (under pipes) cut out in advance, before gluing.
Now you know if you can put a tile on the OSB plate. This is done only if the above conditions are met. Proper surface preparation, consistent and uniform laying of tiles using the level will help to create a beautiful and durable coating even on such a whimsical building material as OSB. The main thing to have patience and not proceed to the next step until the previous.